Restaurant review: With the spirit of an Anchorage mainstay, Mexico Lindo is serving up diner classics

When Granny B’s, the venerable and beloved Midtown breakfast spot, closed its doors last year, I felt a real sense of loss. Not because it was a favorite but because, shamefully, I had never made it to the Alaskana-filled mainstay with the reputation for great blueberry pancakes. When Granny B’s closed up shop, I thought I’d lost my chance for good. As a food writer, I get lots of opportunities to eat sophisticated, inventive and downright posh plates, but as much as I love bone marrow, caviar and microgreens, I might love a good diner breakfast even more.

So, I was delighted when the space was taken over by the owners of the small Mexican grocery next door who did little more than change the name. In fact, the food that has been making locals happy for years is still on the menu and the Granny B’s chef is still in the kitchen. On a recent Sunday, my daughter and I drove by the old-school spot — now named Mexico Lindo — on our way from one errand to another and seized the opportunity for an indulgent breakfast.

The menu is pure nostalgia. This is classic, simple American diner food. Straightforward breakfast platters, loaded omelets, classic sandwiches and a selection of burgers. Also offered are huevos rancheros, one of my all-time favorite dishes.

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My daughter opted for the “Big” omelet ($15) that lived up to its name. It was stuffed — and I mean stuffed — with grilled turkey and swiss cheese, and topped with crispy bacon. This came with a square of perfectly golden hash browns and a side of either toast or pancakes. If you think my daughter chose toast, then you don’t know my daughter. I was glad to steal a bite of her pancakes — stolen before they were drizzled with syrup — and the hype is well-deserved. These were perfect. The batter has just the slightest hint of sweet, and the fluffy, tender texture and the perfectly golden exterior are everything that a good pancake should be.

I, of course, went with the huevos rancheros ($16) — one of only two Mexican-themed dishes on the breakfast menu, the other being a Mexican omelet with jalapenos, cheddar and homemade salsa. I was not disappointed. These “ranchers” eggs layer fried tortillas with eggs and a smoky salsa. I love the contrast of the soft tortillas in the center of the plate with the crispy ones at the dish’s edge. I was offered a choice of hot sauce, which I accepted but in the end didn’t need. This is a nicely balanced, perfectly seasoned dish. When you cut into the eggs (I ordered mine over easy), the yolk adds a creamy richness to the bright notes of the salsa. This dish came with a side of refried beans, a dollop of sour cream and a slice of Mexican cheese (cotija, perhaps? I forgot to ask). This was a comforting, satisfying classic.

The space — at least as compared to what I had heard about Granny B’s — admittedly lacks much personality. But it is comfortable, clean, and pleasant. Our server was attentive and friendly and never let us find the bottom of our coffee cups.

Breakfast is available from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Authentic pupusas are available from 4 to 7 p.m. on select days. I have not yet made it in to try these thick griddle cakes stuffed with ingredients like chicharron, chorizo, loroco (an edible flower — who knew?) and cheese, but they are now high on my list of Anchorage musts. I’ll report back.

Though we certainly weren’t still hungry, we decided to wander into the Mexican mini-mart next door, and I’m so glad we did. While we didn’t have room for dessert, we were able to take some home, when we discovered the bakery at the back of the store where pastries like conchas, puerquitos, orejas, polvorones, ($1.50) and sweet empanadas ($1.60) are baked fresh, in-house. We also picked up some fun Mexican snacks like peanut candy bars, house spiced peanuts with chile and lime, michelada mix kits with spiced rims and tamarind sticks (just add your favorite beer!), banana soda (0% juice!). We also grabbed house some house-made tamales.

It was not exactly a surgical shopping trip. Next time, I’ll come back with a plan and a list. There are so many ingredients not widely available in other local grocery stores, including a wide variety of chiles, spices and things like Mexican crema, lard and giant tins of guava paste.

Anchorage is full of unassuming little storefronts that hold something special. And like the empanadas and omelets that Mexico Lindo is serving up, I love seeing what’s inside.

If you go:

Mexico Lindo Coffee Shop

Wednesday-Sunday, 7 a.m.-3 p.m. (breakfast/lunch menu)

Tuesday-Saturday, 4-7 p.m. (pupusas)

Mexico Lindo Mini-Market

Monday-Saturday, 9:30 a.m.-8 p.m.

Sunday, 12:30-6 p.m.

(As always, with small businesses, check social media or call for changes to hours or menus.)

1201 W. Tudor Road

907-563-4155

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